• There are a few decisions and a couple of possible approaches in creating your electric field mitigated sleep sanctuary. For other general mitigation steps, see our mitigation strategy page.

  • Two basic approaches are outlined below.

  • In both approaches, the body voltage method of testing (BVM) is used to confirm adequate mitigation.



Use the body voltage method to strategically and methodically determine exactly which and how many electrical circuits you must turn off. Then, turn off just those targeted areas at nighttime. This approach determines the minimum number of circuits that must be disabled to mitigate your sleeping area.
Pros and Cons:
1. Usually less expensive (smaller unit).
2. Process labor intensive and can be tricky.
3. Less power interruption: possibly more convenient.
Turn off most of the home or large areas surrounding the sleeping area, leaving on only the essentials1 and areas remote (if any) from the sleeping area. Then, confirm with the body voltage method that mitigation has been successful.
Pros and Cons:
1. Often more expensive innitially (larger unit).
2. Process is simple.
3. More consistant with Nature.
4. Power savings over time .


1.Identify the bedrooms that you want to mitigate. Also, identify any and all rooms adjacent (besides, above and below) to those bedrooms.

2.Go to your home’s main electrical panel (hopefully labeled) and confirm by turning off the circuit breakers that correspond to your identified rooms, that all power is disabled. Check the lighting and all outlets in all rooms. If some power is still present, determine which of the home’s other circuit breaker(s) is responsible (often thru trial and error…).

3.Now, you have identified the primary circuits. The number of primary circuits is almost certainly very close to capacity that you will require for your EMF Kill switch unit.

4.Use the BVM to confirm adequate mitigation: By turning off all of the primary circuits, your body voltage measurement should be less than 100 mV. (See our Acceptable Levels page.) If not, you will need to sequentially test and identify other contributory household circuits which then must be shut off as well.

5.Count the total number of circuit breakers that you need to turn off to reach the desired body voltage measurement Your EMFKs unit's capacity must be equal to or larger than this number.

6.Using, the EMF Kill Switch, turn off just those targeted circuits at nighttime.

1.Identify the bedrooms that you want to mitigate as well as all rooms adjacent (beside, above, below) to those bedrooms. Large closets, bathrooms and hallways should be counted. If a room is particularly big or has extensive lighting or electrical, count that room as 2 rooms.

2.The total of all rooms in step 1 above is your room count.

3.Go to your home’s main electrical panel and count the total number of 15-20 amp circuit breakers. This is your circuit count.

4.Depending upon how close to replicating natural conditions that you want to be, you will want an EMFKill Switch Unit that approximates your circuit count, or one that has capacity somewhere between your room count and circuit count (certainly significantly larger than your room count)2.

5.After turning off all of your selected circuits, confirm with the BVM that you have reached the desired body voltage measurement (less 100 mV). See our Aceptable Levels page.

6.Using the EMF Kill Switch, turn off all or much of the home’s 110V wiring at nighttime -- especially those circuits which control the power anywhere near your bedrooms.


  • Body Voltage Testing: In both approaches, the body voltage testing method is always used to confirm that mitigation has been successful. You will want your body voltage measurements to be less than 100 mV. See our Acceptable Levels page for more information on this. The testing process is necessary as wiring layout cannot be assumed to exactly match room layout and unidentified circuits may transit a room’s walls on the way to a remote area or appliance. The body voltage testing process is not difficult and we have outlined that process here. We sell the body voltage meter set up for this process at our store.

  • High Voltage Control: If you have the need to disable power to an electric dryer, stove, water heater or other high voltage appliance/ device, we have that capacity too. Visit our store for 240 VAC options.

  • Control:  All units can be controlled by either the remote FOB or a hardwired switch.   The RF remote FOB is an energy source much like a garage door opener (momentary pulse).  As with the zoning option, the method of control is determined by a simple slide of a switch.  All units come with remote FOBs

  • Antenna:  The standard basic unit comes with a medium range external antenna.  This works for most applications of 150 feet or less and travels through approximately 5 walls.  If more distance is required or traveling through more walls, the optional extended range antennae may be purchased.  Due to various factors of building materials and distance, it is impossible to determine in advance which antenna is optimal.  Most homes are served well by the standard version.  On the other hand, upgrading to the extended range antenna is simple and the conversion can be accomplished in a matter of seconds.

  • (1) A word about Essentials: In reality, the only true essential would be life support equipment for a family member. Refrigerators (with adequate seals) remain very cold overnight; smoke alarms and many things are available in battery powered versions. Most people leave heating and cooling on and typically the power to those systems is isolated from the sleeping areas.

  • (2) There is the occasional home (typically older) that has a higher room count than circuit count. In this case, you are limited to the circuit count in terms of your mitigation unit.